The Ultimate Family Safari in South Africa: What I Learned Planning My Own (With a 4-year-old)
Kid-centric staff at Marataba Safari Lodge, South Africa
Previous safari experiences
My father moved to South Africa when I was 8 years old. One of my first-ever safaris was in Kruger National Park, sleeping in the back of Dad's '70s Chrysler Valiant station wagon at a waterlogged rest camp. The tent we’d pitched had collapsed; I don’t remember seeing any wildlife, but I do remember loving the wildness of the experience, and my Dad for trying. My safari experiences shifted up a gear, or several, whilst I was working with luxury tour operators in London. Back then, 2006-2016, familiarisation (fam) trips meant being hosted at South Africa’s finest safari lodges, including the star-studded Lion Sands, Royal Malewane and Singita. I had been spoilt.
Why we planned this trip
Fast-forward to 2026, I’m living in Morocco, establishing myself as a travel writer. My father passed away in 2021, so we no longer have physical roots or a home in South Africa. My brother, James, and I still have a deep connection to the country and agreed that the time had come to revisit. James and his daughter, my 4-year-old niece, Amelia, live in Melbourne, Australia. We’re planning to meet for a family safari in South Africa for James’ 50th birthday.
As I set out to book the “Ultimate Family Safari”, I found myself reconnecting with my former safari-specialist self and realising how much I miss her. I also realised that whilst a lot has changed over the last ten years, so much has not. Through doing extensive research for our family safari vacation, I discovered that the places and people I’d worked with before — and loved — are still going strong, or rather, have grown into themselves, and are even better than I remembered.
What were we looking for
Travelling with a 4-year-old switched things up a little: safari with a toddler raises a lot of questions. Not being hosted for free on a fam trip didn't help either. We wanted safari experiences that felt authentic. A stress-free family safari in a beautiful part of the world. We were not interested in the newest or most exclusive lodge, or the most prolific Big Five wildlife sightings. We were looking for the ultimate family holiday for us, a place that would feel like home for a family that is spread across continents, and one that fulfils everyone’s holiday wishes.
Safari adventures at Marataba Reserve, Marakele National Park
The research phase
When I say, “I did a lot of research”, I mean, “I did a lot of research” on family-friendly safari lodges South Africa. Turns out planning your own family safari with a real-life 4-year-old is harder than planning other people’s. Not many places accept kids on safari under five years, and those that do may accommodate them in Family Units but do not really cater to their needs. I called on industry pros and local friends on the ground, and spent hours digesting safari property websites, airline and Google Maps routes. Contact me if you’d like to hear more about this research; there were many others we liked but didn’t get to visit, and a list of family-friendly recommendations.
In doing so, I realised this trip planning was becoming more than about our family safari; it was me stepping into a new role as an Africa-wide writer, having largely written about Morocco until then. I saw a gap for an independent, expert voice, someone who was privileged to have already travelled extensively across southern and east Africa. I’d noted, from writing research and reading newspaper and magazine round-ups, that very few writers have been physically immersed in as many of the continent’s best safari experiences. Places that I’ve lived in or visited, that are a part of me. Our family safari evolved into a writer’s version of a fam trip, a slightly discounted stay in exchange for content and honest reviews. And, with that, our safari itinerary shifted to become more varied, more work-focused, and more exciting. Here it is.
Our final itinerary
Self-catering/ guesthouse budget ($100 per Family Room per night)
Self-catering Family Tent at Africamps Waterberg, South Africa
For this 2-week South Africa safari itinerary, we ended up doing a mix-and-match of camping, pampering, play, and rewilding. It included a budget, glamping, and a family-friendly safari at Africamps Waterberg. Here, we got to play at being self-sufficient, collecting kindling, stoking the wood-burners, shopping for food at the SPAR in Vaalwater, and braaiing on our deck overlooking the bushveld. Introducing Amelia to her first (full-length) pony ride alongside gentle wildlife, such as impala.
We spent a few days at a simple guesthouse, AmaZulu Lodge on McKenzie Street in St Lucia (note: there’s also an AmaZulu Guesthouse in Hluhuwe), with a more relaxed pace and less focus on a set schedule. We got to plan our days, enjoying later starts, lazy seafood lunches, and exploring local hangouts in the village for dinner. A wildlife highlight in St Lucia was taking a sunset boat trip on Lake St Lucia to spot hippos, crocs and birdlife. The sunset, wow. Here we also loved a full-day trip to Cape Vidal, a wild beach, stopping for elephants as we passed through the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, listed as South Africa’s first World Heritage Site in 1999 for its natural beauty and diversity.
Mid-range budget ($700 per Family Lodge Chalet per night on a full board basis)
Kid-friendly drives at Rhino River Lodge, Manyoni Game Reserve
We stayed at a mid-range, family-friendly lodge, Rhino River Lodge, in the Manyoni Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, where we had close-up wildlife encounters with elephant, lion, giraffe, zebra and impala. Whilst we didn’t have time to participate on this trip, I loved hearing about the fascinating hands-on conservation projects guests can enjoy in the Manyoni reserve. This was one of the best safari lodges for kids in KwaZulu-Natal. We were accommodated in a charming, spacious duplex Family Chalet, with warthogs wandering past on the grass outside. Amelia loved ticking off the wildlife in their beautifully illustrated and interactive species booklet, and choosing her favourite meals from their kids’ menu. Read more about our Rhino River Lodge stay in the review write-up here.
Top-end budget ($ 2800 per Family Luxury Tent per night on a fully inclusive basis)
Epic kids club for the in-between safari hours at Marataba Safari Lodge
The highlight of our “Ultimate Family Safari” was celebrating my brother’s 50th in style at Marataba Safari Lodge. For anyone looking for the best family-centric lodge in South Africa, this is it! A magical place that has a special place in our family’s hearts; few places have made me cry on departure; this was one. We were thoroughly spoiled and touched deeply by the Marataba experience. The incredible staff intuitively read all our needs and were always one step ahead.
On arrival, Amelia bee-lined it to the epic kids’ club, where she had plenty of space to safely run around, play, connect and learn about her surroundings. After the morning drives and breakfast with us, she was off doing something fun with the childminder, or following wildlife tracks and creating spoor casts with our guide. Giving us time to relax by the pool, practice yoga on our deck, indulge in a massage, and enjoy a quiet, delicious lunch before being reunited.
The scenery at Marataba is incredible, with the majestic Waterberg plateau as a backdrop to the lodge and open-jeep drives. I loved the openness of the reserve, and that we had to work a little harder to track and find the wildlife. Chatting with our guide, who had previously worked in the Sabi Sands, yes, it’s harder to find the leopard at Marataba, but when you do catch sight of the black tip of their tail, it is so rewarding. My brother suggested an article tagline: “Seeing the Big Five under Five”, referring to Amelia; it could also have been before 5 pm: we saw so much on our first afternoon game drive! Marataba Safari Lodge gets a full review here.
Impact of the trip
Our guide at Marataba said, “Don’t underestimate the impact this trip is having on Amelia”. Referring to his own personal experiences. He went on to tell us how he, a Frenchman, had enjoyed his first safari aged 4 years old whilst on a family holiday in the Kruger. It was this family safari holiday that set him up to eventually become a field guide. Away from the news and screens, we bonded and played.
At the beginning of the trip, a guide at a crocodile centre in St Lucia offered us the opportunity to hold a baby crocodile, but Amelia and I refused, too scared. On the last day of our trip, transformed by two weeks of experiencing wildlife alongside expert and passionate guides, we visited another crocodile centre in Johannesburg. Here, Amelia pushed kids twice her age out of the way to hold not only a baby crocodile but also a gigantic snake. It was too heavy for her to hold, so the snake was looped over my shoulders. Seemingly, her fear (and mine) of Africa’s wildness was overcome; in its place came a love for, and a deeper understanding of its wild animals and wilderness areas.
Learning to be a safari guide at Marataba Safari Lodge
Lessons learned
When I reflect on what I had hoped for this family safari adventure, it was primarily to spend quality time with my family in a country that holds meaning to us. We did. I also wanted to introduce Amelia to the wildlife, the scenery, the joy of being with South Africans, the beaches where we’d played as kids, and to see who we (my brother and I) are in that environment. It was also important for me to show Amelia different experiences across a variety of budgets, from USD100 to USD3000 per night, and that we can be happy at all price points. Teaching and remembering the value of money, rich experiences, and the preciousness of time spent with loved ones. That said, at Marataba (the more expensive lodge), we also realised the power of “it takes a village” to bring perfect harmony to a family holiday, and what motivation that was to work harder to afford those once-in-a-lifetime splurges.
Get in touch
If you’re planning a family safari to Africa — independently or with a tour operator — please do get in touch. I’d love to recommend and introduce you to individual lodges (to book direct) or suggest the best safari specialist to pull together the itinerary best suited to your family’s requirements. Let’s chat!
Planning a safari in South Africa and flying in or out of Johannesburg? Check out this round-up of the “Best Hotels in Johannesburg”.
