Marrakech away from the crowds

Mellah rooftops taken from Ksar Anika Hotel and Spa in Marrakech

It’s Easter weekend, in the middle of Ramadan.

I’m on my way to Marrakech airport to pick up a friend who is arriving from the UK.

The streets are filled with pool-sized puddles, and the skies are cloudy, with high winds and heavy rain slowly clearing.

The city is packed with tourists in search of sunshine.

The friend I’m picking up has visited Marrakech several times, principally for work. She did not enjoy her previous experiences and spoke of being hassled in the Djemma el Fna.

However, she allows me to show her another side of the city through my fresh guidebook research.

And here is the result: an itinerary for those who prefer to experience Marrakech away from the crowds in the Mellah and Kasbah quartiers. Also, great for regular or returning visitors who want to explore another side of the city.

Stay in the Mellah or Kasbah district

Around fifteen minutes' walk south of the Djemma el Fna square, you’re in the Mellah, the city’s former Jewish quarter. It is a mix of rustic streets, cobbled alleys, culinary schools, Synagogues, and a vast Jewish cemetery. Spice souks, artisan stalls, and trendy cafés spill onto squares.

Neighbouring the Mellah is the Kasbah, Marrakech’s original fortress, built by the Almoravid dynasty in 1062. It is home to a Royal Palace, Badi Palace, the Bahia Palace, and Sultan Al Mansur’s place of rest, the Saadian Tombs.

If you like to be in easy walking distance of everything in the Mellah and Kasbah, a brief overview of hotels would be: any families looking for a reasonably priced option may enjoy the child-friendly Riad Noos Noos, travellers who prefer a boutique hotel option may enjoy the spacious suites and services at Ksar Anika Hotel & Spa, and couples looking for an indulgent and romantic splurge, check out to La Sultana!

Grab a snack in the Place des Ferblantiers

Tables in front of Mazel café Place des Ferblantiers Mellah Marrakech — Mazel café, Places des Ferblantiers

Also known as Tinsmith’s Square, this is where metalworkers practised their trade. It is still home to a few stalls selling intricate lanterns, brassware, and hand-crafted pieces. Nowadays, it is a popular place to rest and bask in sunshine whilst observing life in the square from a café or roof terrace. We enjoyed delicious coffee, simple falafel, and kofta pitta sandwiches at Mazel. Other recommended places here would be Kosybar for sunset cocktails, and Le Tanjia for a traditional Moroccan dining experience complete with belly dancers!

Immerse yourself in the Mellah’s Jewish heart

We stumbled across the Lamaza Synagogue and enjoyed a quick visit inside (10 dhs entry). We learned how a large community of Jewish people came to the city, and discussed how Morocco has, over time, accommodated different cultures and religions that share their core values of devotion to family and God. Nearby El Miaara Jewish Cemetery, the largest in Morocco, is a peaceful place to reflect and wander with its whitewashed gravestones, many dated to the late 1950s, when typhoid was rife.

Revel in the (former) glory of the historic palaces

During Ramadan, the Bahia Palace and Badi Palace closed at 3 p.m., so we didn’t visit on this occasion. Something for next time: I am fascinated to see the glorious Bahia Palace (70 dhs entry). It is a 19th-century palace spread over 8 hectares with 150 opulent rooms! Get there early or late to avoid the crowds. The Badi Palace, constructed in the 16th century, is nowadays a palace in ruins; still, it is an interesting visit for those who can visualise its former glory and appreciate its monumental size.

Shop in the Mellah’s trendy boutiques

One of my favourite women’s ready-to-wear fashion designers in Morocco is Meriem Nour, creator of a small independent Hanout Boutique. She has two boutiques in Marrakech; one is on Riad Zitoun El Jdid, the main road from the Medina to the Bahia Palace.

If you’re more in homeware, perhaps Concept Bohem on Place des Ferblantiers is more your vibe, with rattan baskets, hats, lampshades, mirrors and other lightweight gifts or souvenirs.

Take a cookery class

If you are interested in learning some Moroccan recipes, the Museum of Culinary Arts and Café Clock offer classes. The Museum of Culinary Arts has 34 workstations and daily classes covering the secrets of blending spices, slow cooking, and tricks of traditional recipes handed down orally through generations. Café Clock offers traditional recipe classes, and a bread-baking/patisserie-making class.

Visit the Saadian Tombs

This necropolis, a walled garden cemetery, was built in the 16th century, long forgotten, and only rediscovered in 1917. We got there at 9 a.m. in order to appreciate the tranquility of the gardens and mausoleum chambers without too many people. The main attraction is the Chamber of 12 Pillars, where Al Mansur and his family are buried alongside other Sultans. Elaborate marble pillars, zellige tiles, and intricate details have been magnificently preserved. Entry is 70 dhs.

Book in for a hammam and spa time

Several hotels and riads in the Mellah and Kasbah have spas in-house. You can reserve at another riad or hotel if your accommodation does not. La Sultana is in the Kasbah for a real wow factor splurge spa experience.

Or, check out Kosyspa for an independent spa in the Mellah district. And for those who want the real hammam experience, I read about it but have yet to experience Hammam Ziani.

Dive into the Mellah’s diverse dining scene

A few recommendations we were given but did not experience on this occasion are La Famille, for a hearty and wholesome vegetarian lunch in a rustic citrus garden oasis; Naranj, for a tasty, fresh, and delicious Lebanese menu; and Un Déjeuner à Marrakech, for a creative, modern twist on Moroccan cuisine in its stylish split-level restaurant, the top one being a beautiful roof terrace with 360° views.

We wanted something different for dinner one evening, as in a non-Moroccan menu, that would a treat for me. We ventured further to Plus 61 in Gueliz for dinner and had the most fantastic evening; the food, service, wine, and ambience were all five-star. Their concept is to ‘capture the spirit of the Australian lifestyle—relaxed, uncomplicated and generous…blending vibrant flavours of the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and South Asia.’ Spot on!

I hope you have enjoyed this blog and reading about another side of Marrakech—one that I love. My travel buddy shared these words on a social media post afterwards: ‘Here’s a tip for a great trip: have a friend who is so passionate about a place that they show you around and even the most cynical part of you loves the experience. Ideally, so passionate that they wrote the Lonely Planet guide on that place.’ Shukran Lucy, thank you for being such a fantastic travel buddy!

We travelled with a copy of the Lonely Planet in hand and found Helen Ranger, who wrote this section’s content to be insightful, interesting and up-to-date. You can buy your discounted copy using my Amazon Associate link, or from your local bookstore.